Tbilisi: caught off-guard / onverhoeds betrap

Rol af vir Afrikaans en foto’s

Tbilisi caught us off-guard, from the long approach along tree-lined boulevards next to the Kura River to the moment we found parking in front of our accommodation in the middle of the characterful old city. The busy traffic flowed smoothly, and we only had to make one U-turn against approaching traffic! Looking back on the murderous traffic of Yerevan, this was child’s play. I must add that our host, a character from a gothic film, skilfully parked our car bumper-to-bumper for us. And there it remained until our departure three days later.

The old city trails up a mountain with centuries-old mansions in a mixture of styles. Mostly attractive because it was a hub for wealthy silk route merchants. Also, a connecting route between the Black Sea and Russia. Tbilisi is regarded as the next Berlin, characterised by super smart boutique hotels, good wine bars, transformed Soviet goods stores with all the exclusive brand names under one roof. The people are hip and walk down the narrow passageways or the wide boulevards with a joyful swing to their step. A kaleidoscope of variety, history, and an old culture.

We were too tired by evening to experience the lively nightlife because we tried to experience all that daylight offered us. We did go wandering on one evening and realised that the place has a spirit, a joyfulness, despite years of suppression. There were the Mongolian khans, Persian shahs, Turkish influences and, of course, the Russian suppressors, who all left their mark on this city. There are Medieval forts, Soviet relics, and then the modern approach, like the modern Peace Bridge that takes your breath away.

We try to avoid cities where possible because we enjoy the countryside and remote places more. When we do visit a city, we do a river trip where possible to orientate ourselves – because European cities almost always have a river. Because I can’t walk very far anymore, we took a topless bus trip which took us through large sections of the city. At its conclusion we just wanted to do it again!

To top it all we took the brave decision to walk up to the massive cathedral on the Elia Hill. Walking stick, et al. Halfway up the mountain we were tired and hungry and decided to sit down right there in front of a street food stall amongst the ordinary folk. Children playing, women walking by with their shopping bags, men sitting at little tables drinking coffee. Just sat there, eating, and watching the passing scene.

The Sameda cathedral is the third largest orthodox structure in the world. I think the largest is in Belgrade, which we visited. But this one is new and was inaugurated in 2004. When you walk through the gates, it takes your breath away. It is a synthesis of different orthodox styles which also represent different historical eras. All with Byzantine undertones.

Inside it was as if one was entering a great sacredness. The silence, the muffled footsteps on marble, massive icons that draw you in. The soft chant of male voices, burning candles and piety constituted a pause and great experience. Unfortunately, there was yet another large group of Chinese who have no respect for the devotional atmosphere. I went across to a group who only wanted a silly in front of a very large icon and asked them to please show some respect. For us it is a sacred place. (See the photographs for the full picture and the beauty of the place.)

In the evenings people gather on the Peace Bridge and walk back and forth across the Kura River. Or they just stand and watch the setting sun and all the reflections on the water reflecting history and culture back to them. The pulsing lights transmit a Morse code message to the effect that the basis of life must be peace amongst nations. Actually, it also messages the chemical elements from the Mendeleev periodic table that make up a human body. Italian designer Michele de Lucchi calls it “the anthem of life and peace among people and nations”.

Another highlight was a cable car trip over the old city to a fortress with a carnival atmosphere. The view is striking from there with the roofs of the old city, the river, and the steep inclines on the opposite side.

Thinking back Tbilisi is an exceptional city that cannot be compared with any other. It is clean, quirky, old and new, modern with an old-world elegant charm, fresh and calm, beautiful – very beautiful. If I had to choose between all the cities we have visited, it would be Tbilisi. There is a resilience and a lightness that envelopes you.

After each day we fell into bed, exhausted, and with the knowledge that when the urban fix was over, old autumnal and wintry villages on ages-old routes awaited. But fortunately, we didn’t know of all the dangers and difficult roads. Our speciality.

***

Tbilisi het ons onverhoeds betrap, vanaf die lang aanloop langs die boomryke boulevards langs die Kurarivier totdat ons parkeerplek voor ons verblyf in die middel van die karaktervolle oustad gekry het. Die besige verkeer het gevlot en moes ons net één u-draai téén die aankomende verkeer maak. Gedagtig aan die moordende verkeer van Yerevan was dit kinderspeletjies. Ek moet byvoeg dat ons gasheer, ‘n karakter uit ‘n gotiese film, die Fiat vir ons behendig bumper teen bumper geparkeer het. En daar sou dit bly staan tot ons vertrek ‘n paar dae later.

Die ou stad rank langs die Kurarivier teen ‘n berg uit met eeue-oue herehuise in ‘n mengsel van style. Meestal aantreklik, want dit was ‘n middelpunt vir ryk syroetehandelaars. Ook ‘n deurgangroete tussen die Swartsee en Rusland. Tbilisi word as ‘n volgende Berlyn gekenmerk met hiper-smart boetiek hotelletjies, goeie wynkroeë, omgeskepte Sowjet goederestore met al die eksklusiewe handelsname onder een dak. Die mense is hip en loop met ‘n vrolike swing in die nou gangetjies of in die wye boulevards. Oral ‘n kaleidoskoop van kleure en geure, geskiedenis en ‘n ou kultuur.

Ons was saans te moeg om die lewendige naglewe te beleef, want ons het alles wat die daglig ons bied probeer beleef. Het net een aand bietjie rondgedwaal en besef die plek het gees, het ‘n vrolikheid om hom, ten spyte van jare se onderdrukking. Daar was die Mongoolse khans, Persiese sjahs, Turkse invloede en natuurlik die Russiese onderdrukkers, wat almal hulle merk in die heuningpot gelaat het. Daar is Middeleeuse vestings, Sowjet relieke, en dan die moderne aanslag, soos die moderne Vredesbrug wat jou asem wegslaan.

Ons vermy stede so ver as moontlik, want ons geniet die platteland en afgeleë plekke meer. Wanneer ons wel ‘n stad besoek doen ons ‘n riviervaart indien moontlik om onsself te oriënteer – want Europa se stede het omtrent almal ‘n rivier. Omdat ek nie meer ver kan stap nie, het ons In Tbilisi ‘n oopdak bustoer gedoen wat ons deur groot dele van die stad geneem het. Ons wou dit toe sommer weer doen!

Verder het ons die waagmoedige opstap na die reuse katedraal op die Eliaheuwel aangepak. Kierie et al. Halfpad was ons moeg en honger en het sommer daar by ‘n kosstalletjie straatkos gekoop en tussen die gewone mense gesit. Kinders wat speel. Vroue wat met inkopiesakke stap en manne wat by tafeltjies sit en koffie drink. Die lewe so gesit en inneem.

Die Sameda katedraal is die derde grootste ortodokse struktuur ter wêreld. Ek dink die grootste is in Belgrado, wat ons besoek het. Maar hierdie een is nuut en in 2004 ingewy. Wanneer jy deur die poorte stap word jou asem weggeslaan. Dit is ‘n sintese van verskillende ortodokse boustyle wat ook verskillende historiese tye verteenwoordig, met Bisantynse ondertone.

Binne was dit asof jy ‘n groot heiligheid betree. Die stilte, die gedempte voetval op matte, en massiewe ikone wat jou intrek. Die sagte dreunsang van mansstemme, kerse wat brand en peïteit was ‘n ruspunt en grootse ervaring. Net jammer daar was weer ‘n groot groep Sjinese wat geen respek vir die gewyde atmosfeer het nie. Ek het na een groep wat net ‘n silly wou hê voor ‘n baie groot ikoon gevra om asseblief respek te toon. Dit is vir ons ‘n heilige plek. (Sien die foto’s vir die volle prentjie van die skoonheid van die plek.)

Saans kom mense op die Vredesbrug bymekaar en stap heen en weer oor die Kurarivier. Of staan net stil en kyk na die son wat ondergaan en al die weerkaatsings op die water wat geskiedenis en kultuur terugkaats. Die polsende ligte saai ‘n Morse kode uit wat lui dat die beginsel van lewe vrede onder nasies moet wees.

‘n Ander hoogtepunt was ‘n sweefspoorrit oor die ou stad tot by ‘n vesting waar daar ‘n karnavalagtige atmosfeer heers. Die uitsig is treffend van daar met die dakke van die ou stad, die rivier, en die steiltes aan die oorkant.

Terugdenkend is Tbilisi vir my ‘n uitsonderlike stad wat met geen ander vergelyk kan word nie. Dit is skóón, quirky, oud en nuut, modern met ‘n ouwêreldse elegante sjarme, vars en kalm, mooi en báie mooi. As ek moet kies tussen stede wat ons bereis het, sal dit Tbilisi wees. Daar is ‘n veerkragtigheid en ‘n ligtheid wat jou omsweef.

Ons het na elke dag moeg in die bed geval en geweet wanneer die urban fix verby is, ou herfs- en winterdorpies op eeue-oue roetes op ons wag. Maar gelukkig nie geweet van al die gevare en moeilike paaie nie. Ons spesialiteit.

Not my photo, but it gives a broad vision of Tbilisi with the Medieval castle and ramparts to the left and the old town against the slopes.

Our cosy flat is in the center of the old town and within walking distance of all major sights, restaurants, and bars.

We were worried when we saw that our flat is above the After Dark Bar. Fortunately, it was closed.

A little further down the street.

Never judge a book by its cover. The interiors are beautiful, as far as we could see. This is prime property.

Neat and clean streets. We were so impressed.

The upmarket area was close to our flat. At night, it is alive with music and the restaurants are full of people. A festive atmosphere.

Lovely bright Georgian carpets are used as cushions

One of the old Soviet factories transformed as a chic bar.

Typical style of houses all over Georgia. We saw the same style in neighbouring Turkey.

The Bridge of Peace is an impressive construction, connecting the old town with a huge park. It was officially opened in May 2010. The bridge was brought to Georgia from Italy in 200 unassembled components. The bridge is 156 meters long and has more than 10 000 LED bulbs built-in, that are switched on daily 90 minutes before sunset.

People gather on the bridge at sunrise or sunset.

The heavy pedestrian traffic on the bridge which is is a favourite spot for selfies.

The pulsing lights with their message in Morse code of peace among nations.

Reflections.

As striking as it is during the day, it is even more so at night.

Our flat was about three minutes away from this busy square. I didn’t dare to cross it and started to panic until we found a subway to the other side.

A closer look at the Medieval fortress above the old town.

To our surprise, the subway was a huge wine market!

Part of the wine market.

I have been looking for years for a sabrage sword for champagne. And there it was! With filigree! But we realized we couldn’t buy it as we only traveled with hand luggage…

The well-behaved traffic. The trees lend a cool, soft and welcoming feeling.

One of the many, many well-designed modern buildings.

A huge piece of Soviet concrete with a ‘the sun will always shine’ message between buildings.

An old house, or is it a residential hotel? It seems that very old buildings were not demolished, but preserved.

The great St. George monument is one of the iconic landmarks of Tbilisi. No matter where you want to go, you will have to pass by this monument.

A closer look. More impressive from the side, but my eyes were everywhere, and I was too slow for a good shot.

You will find quirky artwork everywhere. A little like Barcelona.

I think this is the new opera and ballet theatre.

Influences from all over.

And when you turn your head there is a breathtaking modern building.

Higher and higher in the cable car!

Ancient Metheki Georgian-style church in a picturesque cliffside locale with a bell tower and wide views.

The Sameda Cathedral, towering over Tbilisi. It is the third-largest Orthodox church in the world. It is a modern building, incorporating different styles.

The old town from above.

The Mother of All Georgia statue in shiny metal towering over the city.

While the cable car was descending, I took this image with the bridge and the Jewish Synagogue to the left. Our flat was just behind the synagogue.

We decided to walk the few kilometers up the hill to the cathedral, but I became so tired and hungry. We stopped at a street food stall and ordered a traditional baked something with soft cheese. Usually, we are very wary of street food, but freshly baked is good.

Just like in Armenia, wine is deeply rooted in the culture of the Georgians. Here again, the vine is planted on the pavement.

I couldn’t resist this one. Old bricks were used to build one wall of a very modern hotel..

Another brick wall with interesting burglar bars. Quirky again.

We were blown off our feet when we entered the gates of the cathedral. No photo can describe the vastness and size of what we saw. And the beauty, of course.

Even the bell tower is impressive and huge.

You could sense the sacred atmosphere. A serene place of beauty with its marble floors, rich carpets, huge icons…

And the high cupola!

The red carpet leads to the impressive altar

One of the enormous icons. I lit a candle…

This is enormous as well. Almost like a family tree. Maybe previous patriarchs.

An altarpiece with two side panels. This is an impressive work of art with gold leaf and the finest detail.

An old beggar fast asleep at the entrance.

It rained when we left the cathedral. Guess who is doing ballet steps…and the inevitable photos…

A last look at the impressive cathedral.

A portable bank. It is safe in Georgia!

There will be a complete blog about the vehicles of Armenia and Georgia, but this tells a story. How I longed for Blue.

I am usually behind the camera, but Anuta insisted. Ukrainian beer in Georgia.

Goodbye, Tbilisi! You were good to us!

Read in the next blog about the ancient route through the snow-capped Caucasian mountains to Stepantsminda and how we were caught in a snow storm on a mountain pass with sharp serpentines. Nerve wracking!

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