Stepantsminda: Drama in snow / Drama in die sneeu

Rol af vir Afrikaans en foto’s.

Stepantsminda-Sameba, Qazbegi, Georgia

It was a long an tiring trip from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda, against the mountainour border with Russia. It was only 150 kilometres, but the old military route through and across the mighty Caucasian mountains was a nerve-wracking challenge over many hours

Those mountains don’t have the softness of the Alps or the beauty of the Pyrenees. Even less the overwhelming appeal of the Dolomites or the loveliness of the Tatras or the Carpathian mountains. It is raw, uninhabitable, and around every sharp turn a stranger visa awaits. One feels like an eagle looking down on formations, slopes, ravines and snow-covered villages that have melded or frozen into the landscape over centuries.

Everyone knows of our preference for challenging mountains and that we have overcome most of the highest passes in Europe except the Stelvio. But to take it on in a car is another scenario. Also another skill – the roads are narrow, Anuta had to drive on the right, and the roads are blocked by huge trucks. The big disadvantage for me is that you can’t stop anywhere for photographs. You have to aim and click as you drive and hope for the best.

Ananuri castle complex

About 70km outside Tbilisi we stopped at the well-preserved Ananuri castle complex next to the Zivali lake. The dukes of Aragvi lived here from the 13th to the 18th centuries. It was the battleground for many wars. The story goes that they could survive five centuries of war because there was a secret tunnel which gave them access to food and water. The enemy captured a woman from Nuri called Ana. During her torture she never divulged the secret and died a legend. The castle was then named for her. It also includes two churches, one of which holds the graves of some of the dukes of Aragvi.

We stretched our legs there and wandered about to take in the beauty of the lake and the autumn colours.

Russia-Georgia Frienship Monument

Even further and higher into the mountains and autumn, along the Jvari Pass, is the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument. It was built in 1983, to celebrate the 200-year anniversary of the signing of the Treaty of Gorgievs, in which the Russian emperor back then swore to protect and support the Georgian dynasty from foreign invaders.
Needless to say the monument was erected during the Soviet Period and it actually represents something that never really existed. Russia and Georgia have never been that “friendly” with one another and the main reason why the monument is still there is that it’s beautiful and offers amazing views of the surrounding mountains.

Further proof of the Georgian feelings about Russia is the fact that there are no food stalls on the site and no decent toilets.

Are we meant to stay here!?

Stepantsminda. How did we get there? With plenty of angst because of the blockage of the old military route as I have mentioned. We suspect that trade with Russia, which must be very lively, goes through the border post at night in order to keep the route ‘clean’. Trucks from right across Europe were to be seen, in spite of the boycot … Anuta counted the trucks in one of the rows parked facing north. More than 400 trucks! What chance does one have!? I will never complain about the N1 to Cape Town again.

Stepantsminda. A broken, tired town. Surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains . Mt Kazbeki (5054m) stands guard over the town. The GPS took us to the Booking.com address where we were meant to be. No, it cannot be. Is it a house with people living in it? I got out and walked up to the badly dilapidated double story house. I knocked. No response. Opened the front door. The hallway was a dark storeroom for buckets, tools and rubbish. What now?

I walked around the house to where it was neater and called out. A tall, thin man opened a back foor and handed me a bunch of keys. He didn’t speak. I was ready to make a run for it, but was too tired after a long day. I asked: Room? Without a word he walked around the house and climbed a long flight of stairs to a large balcony. I battled up with my walking stick and legs that didn’t seem to carry me. He unlocked the door and inside was a very neat hallway/dining area and next o it a spacious and clean bedroom with an en-suite bathroom. Once again I learned not to judge the book by its cover too quickly.
We made ourselves at home and then a woman knocked at the door with a plate of homebakes. Delicious.

We left the Fiat there and walked down to the town in the cold. We had spent enough time sitting for one day. The main road is a wide, broken dirt road with rows and rows of shops. In one spot a donga had been filled with a tyre. We looked for something to eat but by that time had had our fill of bread with soft cheese, bread with fillings, bread that can be torn and folded bread. Couldn’t fine anything that ook our fancy and decided to eat at a restaurant. Google indicated a good one across the river.

The sun set early. We walked through a forest which looked as if it floated on old autum leaves. We were really hungry and really enjoyed the traditional dishes. Oh, but it was so cold when we had to climb the hill back to our bed. Freezing.

Gergeti framed by majesty

It was raining the next morning and we used the time to catch up with business and letters and writing. By afternoon there was a respite. We realised that it was our last chance to drive up the mountain to the photogenic Gergeti Holy Trinity church.

On our way up the mountain pass it began snowing. We had to park the car some distance from the entrance and stumbled upwards to the little 14th century church in the cold. The wind was freezing and there was no shelter. The belltower and the little church were full of visitors. We quickly took turns to take photos – you run outside and before you freeze to the stones, your photo must be taken.

The number of visitors decreased and we could have the interior almost to ourselves. It has never been restored since it was built. It is really old, with very beautiful icons and we attempted to see and experience the unseen. A young monk sat on his haunches in the corner, writing in a notebook. In that dimmed light. In great solitude.

Big drama in the snow

The big drama began the following morning. We got up, opened the curtains and saw that the world was white. The mountains covered in snow reaching right down to the edge of town. A long trip lay ahead for the day, back across the Jvari Pass to near Tbilisi and then westwards. The only route across the inhospitable mountains.

Well, just as we reached the pass outside town we saw that it was covered in snow and more snow was falling. The huge trucks stood on both sides of the road and the passage between was narrow. The snow had become a dangerous sludge.

Anuta concentrated hard. I had to watch that side mirrors of the Fiat didn’t touch the trucks. Where cars could pull off, drivers were attaching chains to the wheels. We had no chains. On every sharp bend the car slid in the sludge. Anuta clung to the wheel. The higher we climbed the more dangerous it became. My greatest wish was to take photos, but we didn’t dare loose concentration, even less stop. Here and there I tried to take photos through the windows. But it wasn’t possible to capture the reality.

At last we made it to the crest at Gadauri (2200m). On the other side the weather was much better. The lower we dropped along the many serpentinas, the more beautiful the autumn colours became. Only then could we begin to relax. Once more we have a story to remember. Again we avoided a disaster.

But above all, I realized when I read a quote this morning from Henry Miller in his Greek travel book, The Colossus of Maroussi (1941), saying: “Today as an of old Greece is of the utmost importance to every man who is seeking to find himself. “

Is this what this trip on the dangerous Old Military Route in the Caucasus Mountains do to us? So, in the snow.

Dit was ‘n lang en uitmergelende reis van Tbilisi na Stepantsminda, tot teen die bergagtige grens met Rusland. Dit was net 150 kilometers, maar die ou militêre roete deur en oor die geweldige Kaukasiese berge was ‘n senutergende uitdaging wat baie ure geneem het.

Dit het nie die sagtheid van die Alpe of die skoonheid van die Pireneë nie. Nog minder die oorweldigheid van die Dolomiete of die mooi van die Tatras- of Karpatiese berge nie. Dit is ru, onherbergsaam, en om elke skerp serpentina ‘n vreemder vista. Jy voel soos ‘n bergarend wat afkyk op formasies, hange, skeure, en sneeubedekte dorpies wat vir eeue daar vasgeklip of -gevries is.

Almal ken ons voorliefde vir uitdagende berge, en dat ons met Silwer en Blou al die meeste hoë passe van Europa verower het, behalwe die Stelvio. Maar om dit met ‘n motor te ry is ‘n ander storie. Ook ‘n ander behendigheid – die paaie is nou, Anuta moet regs bestuur, en die paaie is verstop met groot vragmotors. Die groot nadeel vir my is dat jy nêrens kan stilhou vir foto’s nie. Jy moet so in die ry kiek en hoop vir die beste.

Ananuri kasteelkompleks

So ongeveer 70 km buite Tbilisi hou ons stil by die goed bewaarde Ananuri kasteelkompleks langs die Zivalimeer. Die hertogte van Aragvi het hier vanaf die 13de tot die 18de eeu gewoon. Dit was die slagveld van baie oorloë. Die storie lui dat hulle vyf eeue se oorloë kon oorleef omdat daar ‘n geheime tonnel was waardeur hulle kos en water kon kry. Die vyand het ‘n vrou van Nuri gevange geneem met die naam Ana. Tydens marteling het sy nooit die geheim verklap nie, maar het as ‘n legende gesterf. Die kasteel is toe na haar vernoem.

Ons het daar so bietjie bene gerek en rondgedwaal en ons aan die skoonheid van die meer en die herfs verkyk.

Rusland – Georgië Vriendskapsmonument

Nog verder en hoër op die berge en die herfs in, op die Jvaripas, is die Rusland-Georgië Vriendskapsmonument. Dit is in 1983 gebou om die 200-jaar oue Verdrag van Gorgievs te herdenk. Dit sou Georgië beskerm teen vreemde invallers.. Nodeloos te sê, die twee lande het geen ooghare vir mekaar nie, en die Georgiërs verdra die monument omdat dit ‘n asemrowende uitsig oor die Jvarivallei bied. Moet sê ek is bly ons het daar stilgehou. Net weer ‘n busvol lawwe Sjinese wat gestaan en selfie het. Met balletpassies en die haasoor vingers om te sê: I am pretty!

Vereder bewys dat die Georgiërs nie van ndie monument hou nie is dat daar geen geriewe is nie. Net so ‘n verdwaalde kosstalletjie met verdagte kos.

Moet ons híér bly!?

Stepantsminda. Hoe het ons daar gekom? Met baie angs, want die ou militêre roete was verstop, soos ek reeds genoem het. Die vragmotors het soos lang treinwaens van voor af gekom, of was vir kilometers langs die pad geparkeer. Ons vermoed handel met Rusland, wat baie lewendig moet wees, gaan snags deur die doeane om die roete ‘skoon’ te hou. Vragmotors van reg oor Europa is opgemerk, ten spyte van die boikot… Anuta het een van die rye getel wat van vooraf gekom het. Oor die 400 vragmotors! Watter kans staan jy!? Nooit sal ek weer oor die N1 na Kaapstad kla nie.

Stepantsminda. ‘n Stukkende en moeë dorp. Met majestieuse berge met sneeu omring. Berg Kazbeki (5054m) waak oor die dorp. Die GPS het ons na ons na die Booking.com – adres geneem waar ons moes wees. Nee, dit kan nie wees nie. Is dit ‘n huis waarin mense woon? Ek klim uit en stap na die uiters bouvallige dubbelverdiepinghuis. Ek klop. Geen antwoord. Maak die voordeur oop. Die portaal is ‘n donker stoorkamer vir emmers, gereedskap en rommel. Wat nou?

Ek stap om die huis waar dit netjies lyk en roep. ‘n Lang maer man maak ‘n agterdeur oop en gee my ‘n bos sleutels. Hy sê niks. Ek wil begin weghardloop, maar is te moeg na die lang dag. Ek vra: Room? Sonder ‘n woord stap hy om die huis en klim met ‘n lang trap op na ‘n groot balkon. Ek sukkel met die kierie en my bene het nie krag nie. Hy sluit die deur oop en daar is ‘n baie netjiese eetkamer en daarnaas ‘n skoon en ruim slaapkamer met ‘n badkamer. Weer het ek geleer ek moet nie so vinnig oordeel en veroordeel nie. Don’t judge a book by its cover.

Ons het ons pas tuisgemaak en uitgepak toe klop ‘n vrou aan die deur met ‘n bord vol tuisgebak. Te heerlik.

Ons los die Fiat tuis en stap in die koue af dorp toe. Ons het vir een dag genoeg gesit. Die hoofstraat is ‘n breë vaal stukkende stofpad met rye en rye winkeltjies opmekaar. Op een plek is ‘n donga en ‘n buiteband is daarin gestop. Ons soek kos, maar is teen hierdie tyd al so uitgeëet aan brood met sagte kaas, brood met vulsels, brood wat skeur en brood wat gevou word. Ons kry niks wat ons aanstaan nie en besluit om by ‘n restourant te gaan eet. Google wys ‘n goeie een aan die oorkant die rivier.

Die son sak vroeg. Ons stap deur ‘n woud wat lyk asof die dit op ou herfsblare sweef. Ons was behoorlik uitgehonger en eet lekker aan tradisionele geregte. Oe, dit was koud toe ons die bult moes uitstap terug bed toe. Snerpend.

Gergeti teen die grootsheid

Dit reën die volgende oggend en ons gebruik dit om op datum te kom met sake, briewe en skryfwerk. Teen die middag is daar ‘n verposing. Ons besef dit is ons laaste kans om berguit na die fotogeniese Gergeti Drie-eenheidkerk te ry.

Op die bergpas daarheen begin dit sneeu. Ons moet die motor ver los en stap en struikel in die koue tot by die 14de eeuse kerkie. ‘n Ysige wind waai en daar is nie juis skuilplek nie. Die kloktoring en die kerkie is stampvoel. Ons maak gou beurte om foto’s te neem – jy hardloop na buite en voor jy vasvries moet die foto geneem wees.

Die besoekers raak minder en kon ons die binnekant byna vir onsself hê. Dit is sedert sy bestaan seker nog nooit opgeknap nie. Dit is óúd, met baie mooi ikone en probeer ons die onsienlike te sien en ervaar. In ‘n hoek het ‘n jong monnik op sy hurke gesit en in ‘n notaboek geskryf. So in die gedempte lig. In groot eensaamheid.

Groot drama in die sneeu

Die groot drama het die volgende oggend begin. Ons staan op, skuif die gordyne weg, en die wêreld is spierwit. Dik van die sneeu tot teen die hoë berge. ‘n Lang dag se ry lê voor, terug met die Jvaripas tot naby Tbilisi, en dan suid van die berge in ‘n westelike rigting draai. Die enigste roete as gevolg van die ondeurdringbare berge.

Wel, net toe ons die bergpas buite die dorp vat sien ons dit is dik van die sneeu en nóg sneeu fladder. Die groot vragmotors staan vir kilometers aan weerskante van die pad en die gangetjie om in te ry is nou. En die sneeu ‘n gevaarlike pappery.

Anuta konsentreer dat dit kraak. Ek moet dophou dat die Fiat se syspieëls nie die vragmotors raak nie. Waar motors kan aftrek trek hulle die bande met kettings oor. Ons het nie kettings nie. Om elke serpentina gly die motor in die sneeupappery. Anuta klou vir ons lewens aan die stuurwiel. Hoe hoër ons ry, hoe dikker en gevaarliker die pappery. My groot begeerte was om ‘n foto’s te neem, maar ons durf nie konsentrasie verloor nie, nog minder stilhou. Hier en daar so deur die vensters in die ry geneem. Maar ek kon nie die werklikheid vasvang nie.

Uiteindelik maak ons dit tot by die kruin by Gadauri (2200m). Aan die anderkant is dit heel skafliker weer. Hoe laer ons sak met die talle serpentinas hoer mooier word dit weer met die herfskleure. Toe eers kon ons begin ontspan. Wéér het ons ‘n strorie wat ons sal bybly. Wéér het ons ‘n ramp afgeweer.

Maar bowe alles besef ek toe ek vanoggend ‘n aanhaling lees van Henry Miller in sy Griekse reisboek The Colossus of Maroussi (1941) sê: “Today as an of old Greece is of the utmost impertance tot every man who is seeking to find himself,”

Het hierdie reis op die Ou Militêre roete in die Kaukasiese gebergtes aan ons gedoen? So in die sneeu.

The Ananuri Castle complex on the banks of the lake, with its interesting history. A perfect setting. But how many battles were fought here?

More and more autumn colours along the way. A wonderful experience to travel surrounded by these colours.

We criss-crossed the Aragvi River a couple of times, boxed in by high mountains. Sometimes there were broad floodplains where stones were mined. See the huge lorries on the old military road.

An idea of the serpentines on the road – sharp switch-back bends.

Downloaded from Flicker. To grasp the size and setting of the Russia-Georgia Peace Monument. Set high above the Aragviiver on the Old Military road.

If others could do it… A belvedere hanging over the deep gorge.

The deep valleys of the Aragvi River. We saw a couple of fortresses along the way to remind you this is also called the Old Military Road. It is a very slow road, and it astounds one to think that people actually built this road.

Above the tree line, we saw a flock of sheep. About the only living animals we saw, except the many stray dogs.

Huge mud and rock slides leave their scars.

A bit closer. Little did we know that the cemented banks on the right would later be covered in snow

One of many kilometres-long trains of trucks waiting for something to happen on the road to and from Russia.

Trucks as far as you could see, We couldn’t work out why some were parked and why some could be on the road. And beware of landing behind a truck. There is no way to overtake it. Space and speed!

Anuta had to navigate between trucks. A claustrophobic feeling! Sometimes for many kilometers.

At last, after a long day of hard driving, we reached our destination. Surely the GPS is wrong. Is this where we made a booking…? But going up the stairs we were pleasantly surprised with a huge balcony with a breathtaking view and neat and modern accommodation. Never judge a book by its cover!.

The sunset view from our window. It would change drastically…

Travellers come to Stepantsminda to visit the small lone Holy Trinity Gergeti Church and the notorious Mt Kazbeki (5054m) to the right. Keep in mind, Mt Blanc in the Alps is 4804m high.

The main road in Stepantsminda! No, it is not a war scene. Note the donga filled with a tyre. We are on our way to find some food.

Still the main road. Check out the Soviet relief on a wall. It depicts workers busy with their tasks.

What could be more Soviet than this brutal structure!

Walking to a forest with autumn leaves. It looks as if the trees are floating, like in a poem.

We started the meal with baked mushrooms and a soft cheese.

Khinkhale is made of twisted knobs of dough, stuffed with meat and spices. You let the butter melts on the knob before you eat this traditional and tasty dish.

Gergeti Church against the snow-capped mountains. Experiencing this made all the hardships worthwhile. Where in the world would you see a more beautiful and serene scene?

It was bitterly cold with snow, rain and a strong wind. We took turns in a hurry to do the photo thing.

There was no time to hide my shirt! Too cold! The bell tower is in the background.

The inside of the church was old and small, with colourful icons.

A kaleidoscope of colours and textures on the wet exterior walls

A last bit of sun on trees looks like a forest fire.

The following morning we were met by snow on all the surrounding mountains.

It was raining when we left to travel back on the Old Military Road. The ever-present gas pipes.

First sign of trouble. Lorries as far as we could see…

Anuta had to manoeuvre the Fiat for many kilometers between parked lorries and both sides. A frightening experience.

I wish we could stop, but it was impossible and too dangerous. I had to take photos while we were on the run!

And then the dangerous, slippery slush started. Anuta earned herself a medal for keeping calm and trying to keep the car on the road.

We just completed a sharp serpentine with precision and shattered nerves as the car slid about in the slush.

We passed beautiful scenes as well! Can’t believe that two days ago it was just another mountain scene.

I couldn’t resist this one. And I couldn’t resist publishing it!

We were relieved to arrive safely back in civilization. The townhouse of the small city of Gori. Soviet influences again. In grand style.

Tskaltubo: Beauty in decay / Skoonheid in verval

4 thoughts on “Stepantsminda: Drama in snow / Drama in die sneeu”

jarlvanschoor says:

18 Jan 2024 at 1:23 pm

Nice story,all the best for you both

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lestoop@gmail.com says:

19 Jan 2024 at 3:29 pm

Ons het nou só lekker gelees! Baie dankie! Dis heerlik om alles saam met julle te beleef; al is dit nou net op n klein skerm. Saam was ons angsbevange op daardie sneeupaaie; voorwaar n ysige uitdaging en koue ervaring. Julle lewens is weer eens verryk. Baie dankie vir n mooi verslag en pragtige foto’s. Ons waardeer dit baie! 👏🏻💐

Sent from my iPhone

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Jean Cowen says:

23 Jan 2024 at 4:39 pm

Dear Gerard and Anuta,

Thank you so much for sharing this with me. My heart was in my mouth when I read about Anuta driving perilous snow-covered roads without chains. I love your adventurous spirits.

Love,

Jean

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Kay Leresche says:

22 Mar 2024 at 2:35 pm

What wondrous journeys you go on – and how privileged we are to get to share these experiences. Thanks for sharing. When are you going to publish them all as a book?

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